Penacova, Felgueiras

Halfway between Guimarães and Felgueiras, the Vizela river digs a valley between Penha/São Bento hills, at the right margin, and Penacova/Barrosas hills, at the left. All these hills have plenty of old granitic rocks of several forms and sizes, scattered around the slopes and ridges. Not surprisingly, the toponymy of several places and villages in the area is associated to rocks: Penha, Lapinha, Penacova... The people that have inhabited the western regions of the Iberian Peninsula in pre-history are known by their cult to these sacred, mysterious rocks. Throughout the centuries, this cult has evolved and merged with the catholic tradition. Nowadays, although the original cult was forgotten, these magical places still attract many faithful locals to the several sanctuaries that were erected at the top of the hills.

One of these sanctuaries - known as Senhor dos Perdidos (Lord of the Stray) - is located at Penacova, Felgueiras. The little sanctuary, sheltered between eucalyptus woods, has a nice leisure spot outside, with several tables and benches. The area around the sanctuary is crossed by several tracks zigzagging between rocks and trees. The entire hill ridge has lovely views over the surrounding hills and valleys, but it is only near a solitary, majestic oak tree that you can get the best views. The evening light on the northern slope seems to shine more than in other places and plunges the homes and landscapes in a golden hue.

While we were walking by the hill tracks, we met an elderly but very well preserved man, Mr. Pereira, which prefers to give its fair value to a smooth ride instead of spending his time at home or at the café. After inquiring him about some marks we found carved on the stones, he told us the story of the treasure of Penacova. By early September 1972, when a farmer was leveling his land with a bulldozer, he found out dozens of very old silver coins that soon attracted the curiosity of local inhabitants. That location had long been known as a spot where the remains of a small fort could be found, mostly buried walls and ceramic fragments. Spread the news, those silver coins were eagerly sought and bought by various collectors and curious others, which led to the dismemberment of the set and led the national authorities to intervene in order to gather the treasure. Eventually, only sixty coins were gathered. More than half of the coins age around the Augustus period, highlighting the abundance of Tiberian wealth in this region. Some rare copies of Gaius and Claudius I coins were also discovered.

Almost fourty years after that discovery, there are still many treasures to uncover at Penacova. Just keep your eyes and soul wide open and you'll feel the magic that people have been here looking for throughout the centuries. Well, even if you don't feel any magic, you just have to dig under the earth, were you will likely find some more tangible riches.

Penacova coordinates: 41.364764, -8.24789

Ponte do Arco (Ark Bridge), Vila Fria, Felgueiras

The Vizela valley - a 45km long river that crosses part of the Minho region, from Fafe to Santo Tirso -, hides some beautiful and culturally rich places, like Ponte do Arco (Ark Bridge), located at Vila Fria, Felgueiras. This bridge was built during the roman empire, about two thousand years ago, re-built in the Middle Age, and was hopefully kept in good shape throughout the centuries.

Ponte do Arco is part of the roman road from Bracara Augusta (Braga) to Emerita Augusta (Mérida). You can still walk over a short segment of the original roman road only a few meters away from the bridge. Still close to the bridge, there is a beautiful watermill in good condition and the ruins of an old asylum which was in the past a hostel where pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela stopped to recover their strengths.

All the scenery around the bridge provides you moments of relaxation and reflection. You barely find someone else visiting this spot, so you can as well fully enjoy the sound of the flowing waters, flying bees, and singing birds.

If you walk by the margin of the river in April or May, you'll see a wonderful show of flowered fields, where children (and why not yourself) will certainly want to run and roll on! Some hundreds meters away, you'll first find a beautiful, picturesque village - Aldeia do Burgo -, classified as Aldeia de Portugal (historical villages of Portugal). Not far from Aldeia do Burgo, you'll cross the ruins of another village - Talhós. This village carries a mysterious aura: its ruins, its surrounding scenery and the heavy silence stimulate your adrenaline. But don't run away! There are lots of blackberries hanging on the walls siding the road. And they're delicious! They make a wonderful dessert for this pleasant stay at Vila Fria.

Ponte do Arco coordinates: 41.39449, -8.23061

Monte de Santo Antonino (Saint Antonino Hill), Mesão Frio, Guimarães

If you travel by the Minho region by bicycle, you bet you can soon rival with Lance Armstrong. You'll hardly find a plain area for relaxing your muscles. Instead, you have to constantly climb and go down steep hills. If you don't take your time to enjoy, you may easily be absorbed by the effort and miss some treasures that hide at the top of these hills.

One of these treasures lives at the top of Monte de Santo Antonino (Saint Antonino Hill), just 5 kms far from Guimarães, siding the road N-101 to Fafe, close to Paçô Vieira (Mesão Frio). You have to take a deep breath before climbing, because it's going to be hard, mainly the last 100 metres. However, the effort pays back generously. At the top, you are awarded with a charming little romanic chapel, located at the edge of a large square. The chapel, which is flanked by a little tower, was probably built around the fifteenth century, to the honour of Saint Antonino.

Saint Antonino is believed to relieve the suffering of asthmatics. There is even a little rock besides the chapel, where someone suffering from asthma can find a cure. The ritual is simple: you just have to blow into a mysterious hole in the rock. However, the recipe works only at midnight of the first Saturday of September. And only one person can be cured each year! The list of candidates is long and you have to obtain the authorization from the master of ceremonies of Saint Antonino's celebration.

If you climb the hill in a sunny day, you'll have another compensation: an amazing panorama view to the valleys of Selho (to the north) and Fafe (to the east). From there, you can plan your next hill climbing!

Monte de Santo Antonino coordinates: 41.443201, -8.23878

Manifesto

Portugal could be one of the major touristic destinations in the world if portuguese were good at marketing. We have landscapes for all tastes: more than 1.000 km of beautiful, sometimes breathtaking, Atlantic ocean coast; hundreds of lovely mountains, hills, valleys, and rivers; tens of cities with charming historical buildings and monuments; a cultural and historical heritage that spans several peoples and civilizations; a welcoming climate - abundant sunlight and mild temperatures during almost all the year; and the list can go on and on...

Unfortunately, only Algarve, Azores, Lisbon, Madeira, and Porto are usual destinations for tourists, who cannot be blamed: they visit mainly what travel agencies and, generally, all specialized media have to offer.

The aim of this blog is to introduce to foreigners and, why not, portuguese themselves the never-ending list of not so known (or unknown at all!) places which are worth a visit. Due to geographic constraints, most posts are going to present northwest locations - mainly in the regions of Minho, Douro Litoral, and western Trás-Os-Montes. However, we are receptive and thankful to contributions from other regions.

Wish you great experiences in Portugal! :-)