Penacova, Felgueiras

Halfway between Guimarães and Felgueiras, the Vizela river digs a valley between Penha/São Bento hills, at the right margin, and Penacova/Barrosas hills, at the left. All these hills have plenty of old granitic rocks of several forms and sizes, scattered around the slopes and ridges. Not surprisingly, the toponymy of several places and villages in the area is associated to rocks: Penha, Lapinha, Penacova... The people that have inhabited the western regions of the Iberian Peninsula in pre-history are known by their cult to these sacred, mysterious rocks. Throughout the centuries, this cult has evolved and merged with the catholic tradition. Nowadays, although the original cult was forgotten, these magical places still attract many faithful locals to the several sanctuaries that were erected at the top of the hills.

One of these sanctuaries - known as Senhor dos Perdidos (Lord of the Stray) - is located at Penacova, Felgueiras. The little sanctuary, sheltered between eucalyptus woods, has a nice leisure spot outside, with several tables and benches. The area around the sanctuary is crossed by several tracks zigzagging between rocks and trees. The entire hill ridge has lovely views over the surrounding hills and valleys, but it is only near a solitary, majestic oak tree that you can get the best views. The evening light on the northern slope seems to shine more than in other places and plunges the homes and landscapes in a golden hue.

While we were walking by the hill tracks, we met an elderly but very well preserved man, Mr. Pereira, which prefers to give its fair value to a smooth ride instead of spending his time at home or at the café. After inquiring him about some marks we found carved on the stones, he told us the story of the treasure of Penacova. By early September 1972, when a farmer was leveling his land with a bulldozer, he found out dozens of very old silver coins that soon attracted the curiosity of local inhabitants. That location had long been known as a spot where the remains of a small fort could be found, mostly buried walls and ceramic fragments. Spread the news, those silver coins were eagerly sought and bought by various collectors and curious others, which led to the dismemberment of the set and led the national authorities to intervene in order to gather the treasure. Eventually, only sixty coins were gathered. More than half of the coins age around the Augustus period, highlighting the abundance of Tiberian wealth in this region. Some rare copies of Gaius and Claudius I coins were also discovered.

Almost fourty years after that discovery, there are still many treasures to uncover at Penacova. Just keep your eyes and soul wide open and you'll feel the magic that people have been here looking for throughout the centuries. Well, even if you don't feel any magic, you just have to dig under the earth, were you will likely find some more tangible riches.

Penacova coordinates: 41.364764, -8.24789